Which are Barcelona’s best bars and restaurants?
In Barcelona you don’t have to blow the budget on Michelin-starred restaurants, because everybody in Barcelona seems to be a foodie.
There is something good to be had on just about every other corner. But unfortunately, there are also plenty of places established to fleece tourists.
You can eat incredibly well in Barcelona for not a lot of money, and you can blow a packet on something really good, or on garbage.
I can’t claim to have eaten at all the restaurants in Barcelona, so I can’t claim that any one is the best. But I do have a few favourites that keep me coming back, and as long as I have plans to return, they’re on my list:
Casual/tapas
It’s at the casual end of the scale where the real surprises can be found, though nothing much here is a secret, so you may have to book in advance.
They may not rank as Barcelona’s best restaurants if fine-dining is your thing, but they will give you a good taste of things.
If you want to escape the hordes on Las Ramblas, both Gats and Bar Lobo are pretty solid choices. For bonus points, they’re on a little square with outdoor seating. Be warned though – there will inevitable be touts/street performers who will try to hit you up for cash. Lobo is also a reasonable option if you have vegetarians in your group too. Don’t expect anything too fancy at either, but the tapas is pretty good. And a ‘mountain paella’ at Gats on a wintery night is something that would bring me back. Lobo’s best stuff, in my opinion, tends to be the fried offerings.
On a different note, Bar Cañete is a local favourite that does everything well. Because it’s this good you will need to book in advance. Still, for local food done well, it is right up there. It won’t be your cheapest Barcelona meal but worth the price. That it is in this location and still a favourite of local residents says quite a lot.
In El Born’s Santa Caterina Market Cuines Santa Caterina is a dining destination that’s sure to satisfy most tastes. Different kitchen spaces line one wall, turning out a large array of plates. And the open setting is divided by planter boxes and quite lovely. They don’t take bookings, but tables turn over fairly quickly.
Busy Carrer del Parlament in Sant Antoni offers numerous options for a casual bite.
I really like Anardi, which specializes in Basque cuisine, including pinxos. The bar area is fairly cozy, but with its view of the action on the street its preferable to the large dining room in the back. Hot tips are squid ink croquettas, and to save room for the chocolate dessert with olive oil and salt.
Across the road, Restaurant Sucursal Aceitera is a reasonable choice, though I have had a few misses along with the hits here. Check-out their set lunches though – they can be excellent value.
Further up Parlament, Culkin is a relatively new establishment that is worth a visit. It does natural wines, but also offers organic and bio-dynamic alternatives for those of us not so keen on natural. Service is friendly and helpful, and the leek signature dish is surprisingly good. It does have a DJ on weekends though…
Up past the lovely Sant Antoni market, Casa Dorita is another solid local choice – frequented by locals. It’s another one you will probably need to book in advance.
Venture up to Diagonal and Bar Alegría is a genuine old-school classic, apparently dating back to 1899. I’ll be honest, it always looked just a little too touristy for me. But I tried their truffle tortilla at a food festival and it convinced me. It’s now a regular spot when I have guests in town. Tapas classics, decent drinks, and old-school charm. What’s not to like? (Beware the natural wines on the menu if you’re not a fan – they’re not listed as such).
Bars With More
When is a bar not a bar? In Spain drinking without food is not really a thing, so even wine bars will offer some plates.
In El Born I really like Eldiset, which advertises itself as a tapas bar. To my mind is more a restaurant with an extensive selection of wines. Eldiset specializes in Catalan wines, with five whites, six reds and a couple of naturals, cavas and roses by the glass. It does a good job of everything, which explains why it’s heaving most of the time. At least you can book ahead.
In a similar vein, I’d argue Rabbit’s Bar, way up across Diagonal in Sarrià-Sant Gervasi is more a restaurant than bar. It’s well out of the tourist areas, so may give you a better taste of how the locals really live. The red prawn croquettes and oxtail are standouts in a very solid menu.
That said, you can even do well in touristy Gotic (I know!). Zona d’Ombra offers around 12 reds, eight whites, two cavas and two roses from around Spain by the glass, as well as a few basic plates.
Over in Sant Antoni, Celler Florida is a wine shop and bar offering a large range of wines and vermuts by the glass – 20 of the former and 34 of the latter! Plus it offers some decent plates. The gildas are excellent, the Russian salad is very good, and smoked sardine toasts are another personal favourite. It’s a popular stop for locals heading home, or on their way out. Or just for loitering around.
A Bit Fancier
Sure, in Barcelona you could go to the best restaurant in the world – the three-Michelin-star Disfrutar. But you’re going to pay for it: menus start at €315 per person without wines.
I’m not dissing anyone who chooses to do so, but this just isn’t my sort of dining any more. That sort of money could see me dining out really well every day for a week…
The surprising thing in Barcelona is that there are so many places serving elevated food without the elevated prices. These are my pick for Barcelona’s best restaurants for quality and value.
One of my favourites is Fismuler. Set on the ground floor of a 3-star tourist hotel in El Born, Fismuler punches well above its weight. Almost everything on the menu is good. The ‘san roman escalope with egg and truffle’ is a not only delicious but a bit of a show with some final prep at the table. The rest of the menu changes regularly, but there’s always a good mellow rice, and the ceviches are always good. A recent pig’s ear sandwich was a surprise highlight. The wine list offers something for everyone, and the space is surprisingly nice. I do prefer it at lunchtime because it feels a little less packed, and the big windows at the front let in a lot of light.
Also in El Born, Orvay does a really good job of the food and offers a wide selection of wines too. I like the bao with truffled oxtail, the cod fritters, and the duck, but there’s plenty more to choose from. Orvay is better than you’d expect in this location I reckon.
Up in Gracia, Viblioteca is an all-time favourite. You could argue it belongs in the Bars With More section above seeing as it doesn’t actually have a kitchen. But they turn out an astonishing array of dishes from behind the bar. You absolutely should save space for a cheese plate, but there’s plenty on the menu that will tempt. And as the name suggests, there’s quite the wine selection available too. You’ll need to book this one in advance.
Over in El Raval, Dos Pebrots is an absolute gem. The concept is to revive and reinterpret early dishes from around the Mediterranean, and the results are something. Its gnocchi with mushrooms is an absolute winner, as is the grilled pork. A decent wine list and helpful and knowledgeable staff make it a winner.
Paella
While paella is not a Catalan dish, tourists associate it with Spain, and what tourists want…
That said, you can get some decent paellas in Barclona.
My go-to paella joint at the moment is Gallito. Situated at the beachfront at the base of the W Hotel, Gallito not only does a solid job of the paellas, but also does a better job of the starters than many of the other restaurants in the area.
This comes as a surprise, because two of the other decent paella joints in the area around the W – Pez Velaand Camping Mar – are both under the same ownership. Both are decent choices. (No, I am not on the Grupo Tragaluz payroll).
A little less of a trek from downtown, and with lovely views over Port Vell marina, 1881 per Sagardi is an excellent choice for rice dishes and seafood, though not the cheapest in town. Still, for the situation and the quality of the food, I’d say it’s worth it.
Natural Wines
By this stage you’ll have realized I’m no spring chicken. I’m not going to complain about younger generations, but I’m also baffled by the idea of cryptocurrency, for example. You invented money? But money that uses loads of power? Why?
I have the same feeling toward natural wines. The first wines were made around 8,000 years ago. In the interim, industrious winemakers have figured out to make it much better. I’m not sure why you’d want to discard all that knowledge.
That so much of it tastes like batches of home-brew that I’ve discarded does little to inspire me.
Still, it’s a thing, and there are some restaurants – too many IMHO – that serve almost nothing else.
I’ll start with two to which I will return:
Right next to Santa Caterina Market, Bar Super does some excellent food, and the helpful sommelier will guide you in the right direction for wines. (It’s a sister restaurant to Bar Brutal, which – as the name suggests – specializes in natural wines. I like the food there, but haven’t found a wine I like after a couple of visits).
Up in Eixample on busy Carrer d’Enriq Granados, Salut Bistro & Wine Bar does some really nice food in a lovely casual environment. Staff are helpful too and they strive to find a philistine like me something to drink…with some success.
Back in El Born, Bar del Pla used to be a regular. The place is usually heaving (book in advance if possible) and does a really good job with the food. In recent times the wine list has become mostly natural, however. I may try it again, but I’m feeling less sure.
Other Info
If you’re after fine-dining establishments, I’m not going to do a better job than Michelin. I have been to a few on their 108-strong list, but so far there’s only one that keeps me coming back. I do aim to try some more, and if they hit the spot they’ll get a mention here.
On a different note, Foodie in Barcelona is what it says on the packet – a blog that focuses on the Barcelona food scene. I can’t say I agree with all their recommendations (I know, I’m unforgiving…) but there’s plenty on their list that may inspire you.