Arume is a charming local restaurant in El Raval

A bit of a favourite this one, and not just because it is close to home. Almost every dish on the menu delivers on its promise, and most are fairly imaginative too, without going over the top.

The service is spot-on, and the pricing is too low for what they deliver. No wonder it is always full from ‘tourist hour’ at 7pm until late. (That, and the fact that TripAdvisor rates it the best paella in town. The paella is fine, but there are others that are better – TripAdvisor is hardly a reliable arbiter.) Book ahead.

The charming Arume's shopfront

Calle Botella, 11-13

Tel: 933 154 872


1881 per Sagardi

Grilled seafood is the speciality at 1881 Per Sagardi, and it is about the best paella in town

Okay. Port Vell is tourist central. But that doesn’t mean you need to suffer through a sub-par tourist meal. On the rooftop of the Museu d’Història de Catalunya, 1881 per Sagardi rises above the tourist traps below, offering stunning views across the marina and superyachts (well, from the terrace out front, if not the dining room), and serving some of the best seafood dishes in town.

You pay for the privilege (expect to pay around €50 a head with limited wine consumption), but in this instance you get what you pay for. We’ve been back a number of times.

Tel: 932 210 050