Louro

The lobster rice is popular

Yes, Las Ramblas can be tourist hell. But not everything here is yellow paella and sangria in mugs.

There are no touts on the street tempting you up the stairs to Louro in the Centro Galego, which is the first good sign. The specialty here is Galician fare, in case the locale wasn’t enough of a hint.

The kitchen turns out some dishes of varying sophistication and success. Our last meal included some perfect padron peppers, gratinated scallops that were a little overpowered by the topping, plain steamed mussels that were clearly fresh but would have benefitted from some sauce, and some utterly spectacular smoked anchovies on toast. 

After several previous visits we finally relented and had lobster rice for a main. It seems this dish goes to just about every table in the restaurant, but there’s a reason for that – it is very, very good, and good value too by Barcelona standards at €24 per person (min 2 pers). 

Our waiter was friendly and knowledgeable, and suggested a perfect wine for the occasion as well.

While there’s almost nothing to recommend in Las Ramblas from a dining perspective, Louro stands out by a country mile. We’ll definitely be back.

Tel: 937 308 280

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Lo de Flor

Another tiny restaurant in El Raval’s less salubrious back streets, Lo de Flor seems somewhat out of place here, but never fear: Super-friendly service from the owners will make you feel at home.

Everything on the small menu is competent and satisfying, and you’re sure to find a wine that suits your tastes with Flor’s help. Recommended.

934 43 38 53

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Museu d’Història de Barcelona (MUHBA) Plaça del Rei

One of 10 sites under the MUHBA banner, arguably the Plaça del Rei is the star. What you don’t tend to realise as you’re admiring the historic architecture in Barcelona’s city centre  is that there’s a whole Roman walled settlement under your feet. Descend in the lift at MUHBA and go back a couple of centuries to see nearly an acre of it, from temples to laundries, and wineries, the tour imparts an amazing sense of what life was like in this ancient settlement. Recommended.

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