The lobster rice is popular

Yes, Las Ramblas can be tourist hell. But not everything here is yellow paella and sangria in mugs.

There are no touts on the street tempting you up the stairs to Louro in the Centro Galego, which is the first good sign. The specialty here is Galician fare, in case the locale wasn’t enough of a hint.

The kitchen turns out some dishes of varying sophistication and success. Our last meal included some perfect padron peppers, gratinated scallops that were a little overpowered by the topping, plain steamed mussels that were clearly fresh but would have benefitted from some sauce, and some utterly spectacular smoked anchovies on toast. 

After several previous visits we finally relented and had lobster rice for a main. It seems this dish goes to just about every table in the restaurant, but there’s a reason for that – it is very, very good, and good value too by Barcelona standards at €24 per person (min 2 pers). 

Our waiter was friendly and knowledgeable, and suggested a perfect wine for the occasion as well.

While there’s almost nothing to recommend in Las Ramblas from a dining perspective, Louro stands out by a country mile. We’ll definitely be back.

Tel: 937 308 280


Bar Lobo

Bar Lobo is just off La Rambla, and not too far into deepest, darkest El Raval, so you know there are going to be tourists. Still, it’s also on the local radar.

I have a a love/maybe-not-quite-love relationship with the place. When it is on, it can be great, and for me the trigger point is how busy they are: If you have to wait for a table – no bookings here – I’d suggest somewhere else, because the systems fall apart a bit when the place is full.

That said, if you avoid the plentiful deep fried menu items, there are some real gems – the tuna tataki is really quite fabulous, for instance.

I’d opt for indoor seating because the place is full of tourists, and the square in front sees a constant flow of often pushy buskers.

Carrer del Pintor Fortuny, 3,